Ants

Big-headed Ant

Physical Description:
Light brown to reddish-brown body that is 1/16-1/8”, has two nodes (spikes that connect the thorax to the abdomen), and a head bigger than its abdomen.

 

Habits:
They prefer to nest in soil that is protected by stones, leaves, mulch, firewood, and concrete slabs and don’t trail far from their colony nesting site. Outside, they like to eat seeds, other insects, and honeydew or sap. Inside your home, they prefer to forage for pet food, fruit juice, and high protein foods like meat, grease and peanut butter.

 

Prevention:

Avoid storing piles of firewood close to your house. Choose landscape materials that are alternates to timbers, limestone rocks, and mulch. Keep your countertops, surfaces and floors squeaky clean and void of food particles.

 

Treatment:

When our technician comes to your home to treat for this type of ant, he or she will investigate the location of the colony by following their forage trail back to its origin. If this happens to be in a wall void behind baseboards, your technician may inject dust into this void. If the colony is outside along some stone borders surrounding a flower bed, your technician will directly treat this nest. To further protect your home from these invaders in the future, your technician will apply an invisible barrier to the exterior of your house.

 

 

Carpenter Ant

Physical Description:
Black, dark brown, or dark red body that is 1/4-1/2”, has one node (spike that connects the thorax to the abdomen), and tufts of hair at the rear end of the abdomen.

 

Habits:
Carpenter ant nests are typically found in moist, water damaged or decaying woods inside or outside. They chew through this very easily and push out frass, or sawdust piles, that contain dead ant body parts. Carpenter ant colonies can contain more than 15,000 ants between the main and satellite nests with one queen and they can produce a noticeable chewing noise in wall voids if inhabited. They forage at night and can enter buildings through crack and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, along utility lines and by tree branches touching the structure. They like to eat insect honeydew, plant juices, and other insects. Of course once they are in your home, they love cookie crumbs, grease on your stove, pet food and that coffee cake you left on the counter!

 

Prevention:

Trim back any tree branches, bushes or hedges that are touching or hanging over your house. Seal framing around your windows and door using either weather-stripping, door sweeps, or caulk. Eliminate moisture issues inside and outside of the house. Seal any gaps around cable wiring, gas lines or electrical wires at the site where they enter the building.

 

Treatment:

When our technician comes to your home to treat for this type of ant, he or she will inspect the areas you have seen the ants trailing. He or she will observe the exterior for any conditions that may be attracting the ants and will make suggestions for preventative measures. With the use of baits, a dust injection, or liquid product, your technician will treat respective interior areas accordingly. To further protect your home from these invaders in the future, your technician will apply an invisible barrier to the exterior of your house. An ongoing preventative maintenance program, such as our Healthy Home Maintenance Plan will keep your home protected against these ants 365 days out of the year.

 

 

Little Black Ant

Physical Description:
Black body that is 1/16” and has two nodes (spikes that connect the thorax to the abdomen).

 

Habits:
Little black ants prefer to nest in woodwork, especially the decaying variety, on the inside of structures and under rocks and logs, in mulch or they’ll create small anthills in lawns on the outside. They can be seen foraging in trails on sidewalks and near building foundations, feeding on sweet or sugary items, like a lollipop that’s been dropped, and other insects. They also like meat, grease, oil and that soft stick of butter near the stove!

 

Prevention:

Landscape your yard without the use of large railroad ties or flat limestone rocks, where moisture builds easily. Repair any rotted window frames or doors. Make sure not to drop food outside and keep all food covered or put away in airtight containers on the inside of the house so as not to invite them right in.

 

Treatment:

Our technician will trace the ants’ trail back to the colony site and treat each nest directly. He or she may use a dust product for wall voids, cracks and crevices. bait may also be applied to areas behind sink faucets or underneath sinks where ants’ water sources are. Your technician will also protect the outside of the building by applying a residual barrier around the perimeter of your home.

 

 

Odorous House Ant

Physical Description:
Brown to black body that is 1/8” and has one node (spike that connects the thorax to the abdomen) that is hidden by the abdomen. They give off an awful nutty smell when you smash them.

 

Habits:
Odorous house ants’ colonies can have up to 100,000 ants and multiple queens. They like wall voids, hot water pipes, heaters, sinks and cupboards, but they can also be found outdoors in soil. During warm months these ants prefer sweets, but they’ll eat protein-based foods during the rest of the year.

 

Prevention:

Be sure to seal all windows and doors so as not to allow any insects through. Pull all mulch and vegetation away from the foundation of the house. Do not leave food out. Repair any water leaks or moisture issues within the structure of your home.

 

Treatment:

The most important part of treating for these ants is finding their food source, which will lead your technician to the nest. Once found, he or she will treat the nest directly. Then, other areas such as infested walls on the inside or outside, electrical outlets or pipe lines will be treated since this is where they are trailing. bait will be applied close to water sources, like water spigots and sinks. There are specific bait products that contain sugars and other that contain proteins to address the problem no matter what time of year it is.

 

 

Pavement Ant

Physical Description:
Light brown to black body with lighter legs, 1/8” in size, and has two nodes (spikes that connect the thorax to the abdomen). The body has grooves and is not smooth like other ants.

 

Habits:
Pavement ants’ colonies contain about 3,000 to 4,000 ants and they have multiple queens. These ants nest in soil, next to buildings, and in pavement cracks, naturally, but can inhabit walls, insulation, and the underside of flooring on the interior of buildings. The travel along linear items such as carpet tack boards and pipes and will forage up to 30 feet from their nest. Pet food is the most common food source for pavement ants, but they like to eat other insects, plants sap, meat, honey, crumbs, and grease.

 

Prevention:

Be sure to seal all windows and doors so as not to allow any insects through. Pull all mulch and vegetation away from the foundation of the house. Do not leave food out. Repair any water leaks or moisture issues within the structure of your home.

 

Treatment:

The most important part of treating for these ants, like odorous house ants, is finding their food source, which will lead your technician to the nest. Once found, he or she will treat the nest directly. Then, other areas such as infested walls on the inside or outside, electrical outlets or pipe lines will be treated since this is where they are trailing. bait will be applied close to water sources, like water spigots and sinks. There are specific bait products that contain sugars and other that contain proteins to address the problem no matter what time of year it is.

 

 

Pharaoh Ant

Physical Description:
Light yellow to light red body with darker abdomen, 1/16”-1/12” in size, and has two nodes (spikes that connect the thorax to the abdomen).

 

Habits:
Pharaoh ants nest virtually anywhere, but they prefer humid locations near food and water sources. Their colonies can range from 100 workers and 1-2 females to a few hundred thousand workers and a few hundred females. Using utility lines, they scale up and into your home through poorly sealed windows and into crevices in flashing on the house. Pharaoh ants require a lot of water and are not picky when it comes to food types. They like sweets as much as proteins and even dead insects.

 

Prevention:

Be sure to seal all windows and doors so as not to allow any insects through. Pull all mulch and vegetation away from the foundation of the house. Do not leave food out. Repair any water leaks or moisture issues within the structure of your home.

 

Treatment:

These ants will scatter and form new nests very easily, if they are disturbed. It’s very important to use baits. Your technician will apply these products close to water sources, like water spigots and sinks as well as along their foraging trails. There are specific bait products that contain sugars and other that contain proteins to address the problem no matter what time of year it is. There are also granular baits that can be applied along baseboards or carpet tack.

 

 

Asian Ladybeetles

Physical Description:
Orange, brown or reddish body with scattered black spots, 1/3” in size, and has wings that are tucked under its colorful outer shell.

 

Habits:
Often found on the South and West sides of buildings basking in the sun, Asian lady beetles in the US feed on insects in trees, crops, and gardens but seek shelter in your wall voids during colder months. They gain access through gaps in foundations, cracks and crevices in siding and openings around windows and doors. They hibernate during the cold months but will not hesitate to come out of the woodwork on a sunny day.

 

Prevention:

The most effective and non-chemical method of preventing these insects from entering your home is to caulk all gaps, cracks and crevices on the outside of the house, including around utility wire or pipe openings. Repairing broken windows or screens and sealing foundation cracks are also great ways to prevent this type of insect from invading your home. Planting shady foliage on the southern and western sides of the building not only reduce air conditioning bill it reduces the likelihood of infestation.

 

Treatment:

The best time to have your technician perform a preventative treatment for asian ladybeetles is in the fall before crops are cut down. This will ensure that your home has a protective invisible shield on the exterior to repel these insects and prevent them from crawling up underneath the siding and taking up residency in your walls. This treatment will also help with boxelder bugs, spiders and many other types of insects.

 

 

bed bugs

 

Physical Description:
Adult bedbugs are 4-5 millimeters in size and are flat, oval-shaped insects that appear bright red right after a blood feeding. Before a feeding, they are typically lighter in color and almost translucent. Younger nymphs are about the size of an apple seed. Eggs are white in color and are also visible to the unaided eye as they measure about 1 millimeter in size.

 

Habits:
Bed bugs get their name because their preference in habitats is mattress seams, sofas and other furniture. By no means does this indicate these are the only places you’d see them. Bed bugs are attracted to warmth and carbon dioxide presence and are more active where sunlight is not present. Without a feeding, bed bugs can live up to 18 months. They will seek blood at least every ten days and tend to bite in patterns or rows as they feed. Their saliva contains anticoagulants and anesthetics which cause an itchy reaction minutes after they feed. Bed bugs reproduce only as adults very rapidly. Females can lay up to 5 eggs per day and these can hatch within one to two weeks in ideal conditions.

 

Prevention:

Travel intelligently. Hotels, hostels, dormitories, day camps and other similar places are the most common places you can pick up bed bugs. Familiarize yourself with clues to look for in identifying bed bug activity. Hire one of Burr Pest Control’s professional technicians to perform an inspection for bed bugs. Encasing your mattresses and pillows in covers specifically designed to prevent bedbugs from passing through the fabric is one solution for bed bug infestation prevention. Even with the presence of an infestation in a mattress, these covers would lock the bed bugs in and would be less expensive than replacing the entire mattress. We recommend www.bedbugcentral.com for any information pertaining to bed bugs. Please refer to this site for detailed information.

 

Treatment:

Bed bugs can be extremely difficult to detect. Proper diagnosis requires professionals highly trained in bedbug treatments. Bed bug services like termites are very labor intensive, rely heavily on the careful use of residual pesticides and should only be conducted by professionals. Proper service requires that ALL possible harborages are treated. This usually requires the complete cooperation of the customer to access all areas that need to be treated. One service WILL NOT eliminate bed bugs from your home. A typical bed bug management program consists of an intensive initial service followed by a number of follow up visits over a period of several months. These follow up visits are necessary to ensure a maximum level of control. In rare cases, total elimination of bed bugs may not be possible through our regular program. We will work with the customer to design custom treatments to give the best control possible.

 

 

bees/wasps

Baldfaced Hornet

 

Physical Description:
Black body with white face and three white stripes on abdomen; tiny hairs on body and reddish brown veined wings. These stinging insects are actually part of the yellow jacket family and average about ¾” in size, which is much larger than the typical yellow and black yellow jackets.

 

Habits:
Bald Faced Hornet queens choose an ideal nest site and construct their nest out of tree branches, shrubs, and vines. These can most commonly be found high up in a tree, on houses or sheds, etc. and can reach up to 14” in diameter.

 

Prevention:

Bald Faced Hornets are beneficial insects and help control other insect populations, but when their nests are close to areas where you or your family will encounter them, it’s a good idea to have a professional remove the nest. They can be aggressive and impose on you and your family’s safety and well being.

 

Treatment:

Your technician may use a special aerosol product through the opening of the nest to ensure that all the insects are deceased. He or she may need the aide of a “bee pole” if the nest is out of reach. Once the nest has been treated, it will be removed and discarded safely. The technician may need to return on a second visit for the removal, depending on its activity.

 

 

Carpenter Bee

 

Physical Description:
Carpenter bees resemble bumble bees, but the black tops of their abdomens are shiny and bald. About ½-1” in size, they have a fuzzy golden mid-section and golden to dark brown wings.

 

Habits:
These bees are not social, nor do they dwell in nests or hives. They bore round holes straight back into wood structures large enough for their bodies to fit in, and then the female will turn right and form “galleries” which follow the grain of the wood. Individual chambers, sealed off with regurgitated wood pulp and nectar, is where the female would lay one single egg. Only the female has a stinger but it is rarely used.

 

Prevention:

Treat wood structures with a proper sealant or paint. Carpenter bees rarely infest such treated wood.

 

Treatment:

Each individual gallery will need to be treated by your technician. It’s important not to seal off any holes or entries for 48 hours so that the products we use have time to work through their galleries and kill off any emerging insects.

 

 

Mud Dauber

 

Physical Description:
Mud daubers are typically about ½-1” in size and are usually black with a stalk that connects the thorax to the abdomen. They have an iridescent sheen to their bodies and their wings could be transparent or dark brown to black. Some are yellow and black. Their nests are constructed of mud, giving them their name. They are tube-shaped and constructed side by side.

 

Habits:
Mud daubers are solitary insects and prefer sheltered sites like eaves, porch overhangs, attics, barns, and sheds. If the mud tube nests have holes in them, this usually means the insects have emerged and the tubes are old or inactive. Female mud daubers deposit their eggs on spiders that have been injected with venom. These spiders are placed in the mud tubes then plastered over. The egg develops, spins a cocoon, and emerges from the mud tube the following spring.

 

Prevention:

Mud daubers are beneficial in that they control spider populations. If their nests are built near human activity, your Pest Management Professional may come out to remove them. A preventative barrier can be applied to the exterior of your home to prevent stinging insects from building nests on your building.

 

Treatment:

If nests are already established, your technician may treat each individual nest then scrape the nest off the building with a putty knife.

 

 

Paper Wasp

 

Physical Description:
Dark brown to reddish brown with yellow markings, long-legged, about 5/8-3/4” in size with transparent to yellow wings.

 

Habits:
Typically non-aggressive and semi-social, yellow jackets live in small colonies and are known for their paper-like and honeycomb or umbrella shaped nests. One egg is deposited into each cell of their honeycomb nest. They prefer to build their nests on tree branches, on the underside of eaves, porch overhangs, attic or barn rafters, between deck flooring, or any other place that is protected. If they feel threatened or if you come in contact with their nest, they will sting.

 

Prevention:

Paper wasps eat many other insects and are therefore beneficial to the natural control of environmental pests. However, when they build their nests near your front door or on the swing set in the backyard, this is usually a good time to hire a technician to remove them. To prevent stinging insects from building nests on your structure, your technician will apply an invisible shield on your home especially focusing on areas like eaves and overhangs.

 

Treatment:

If nests are already established, your technician may treat each individual nest then scrape the nest off the building with a putty knife.

 

 

Yellow Jacket

 

Physical Description:
Typically between 3/8-5/8” in size, yellow jackets are black with bright yellow patterns and yellow legs, and have dark brown to black wings.

 

Habits:
Yellow jackets are social insects and live in colonies. Only inseminated queens hibernate and survive over the winter. Nesting sites can vary from underground to buildings. They are slow and won’t usually sting unless they feel their nest entrance is being threatened. At that point, they are very aggressive, fast, and can sting multiple times, which is very painful. When nests are located in buildings, it can be dangerous to humans as the over-wintering queen may seek shelter on the inside of the building for warmth.

 

Prevention:

Yellow jackets are considered beneficial insects due to the fact that they eat mostly arthropods. It is definitely a good idea to hire a professional to eliminate a nest that’s too close to your living areas. Yellow jackets are attracted to fermenting food. If you have a compost or garbage area outside your house, make sure it is sealed to where they cannot crawl into it. Also, seal up any gaps or crevices on the outside of the building around windows, doors, eaves, etc. This will prevent them from entering the structure.

 

Treatment:

If a nest is already established in a building, your technician may treat the nest by finding the opening to the colony and injecting the nest with a dust product. If a ground nest is established, the technician will look for the opening in the ground and inject the nest with the appropriate product.

 

 

beetles

Black/Varied Carpet Beetle

 

Physical Description:
Carpet beetles are between 1/8-1/4” in size and range from dark brown or black to multi splotchy in color. Their larvae are light brown to black in color and appear to have stripes and hairs.

 

Habits:
Carpet beetle larvae consume anything from animal materials such as hair, fur, feathers, hides, and dead insects to plant materials like nuts, seeds, grains, cereal, flour, or other dry stored food products. They may burrow through packaging to get to food or create holes in the materials. They can also be found in bird nests, on flowers outside, on wasp nests, in rodent nests, and in many other similar locations. The larvae tend to curl up when disturbed and do not like sunlight. Adult carpet beetles are attracted to sunlight until they mate.

 

Prevention:

Good sanitation practices, rodent or bird control when necessary, keep food in airtight sealed containers, remove accumulation of pet hair or lint.

 

Treatment:

The source must be found in order to properly eliminate these pests. All food products and animal materials such as fur coats, hide rugs, etc. must be examined. Food materials must be either tightly sealed in a garbage bag and thrown away if infested, or put in airtight sealed containers.

 

 

boxelder bugs

 

Physical Description:
Adults are between 11 and 14mm in length with an oval shape and black back interrupted with red patterns. It is bright red on the back in the early instar phase.

 

Habits:
Adults will hibernate during the winter, after which time they emerge at the time when boxelder trees bud (late April-early May). The female lays her dusty-yellow eggs in clusters in several types of areas, preferably on the boxelder tree itself. These eggs hatch in about 2 weeks and the nymphs feed on the boxelder seeds. Regularly there are 2 generations annually. The adults initially feed on the fallen boxelder seeds also and later move on to the newly growing leaves of the female trees (seed-bearing). They will also target the female silver maple trees (seed-bearing) and even plum or apple trees (fruits). Inside the residence their fecal matter may cause red staining, their crushed bodies produce a disagreeable odor and when mishandled may bite people.

 

Prevention:

Spray the exterior of the homes in order to keep the boxelder bugs from gaining access through to the interior. This should be performed before they start searching for a place to hibernate, typically in wall voids, in mid to late August (just before the second and last generation matures). There are also physical measures advisably stressed, such as screening all vents and caulking all gaps.

 

Treatment:

If boxelder bugs are already inside the home, vacuuming and other means of physical removal should be employed rather than chemical treatment. Once they have been removed, then a preventative treatment may be applied. Wall voids should never be treated for infestation of boxelders for reason that other pests such as dermestid beetles will be attracted by their decay. Instead, it may be best to wait for their emergence the following spring to treat.

 

 

Centipedes/millipedes

 

Physical Description:
Adult centipedes can reach a length of 6 inches and possess a flattened and wormlike body with brownish coloring, and its legs are large and sprawled outward. Adult millipedes can reach a length of ½ inch and possess a rounded and wormlike body usually with blackish coloring, and its legs are small and folded underneath it.

 

Habits:
Millipedes may lay up to 300 eggs with the young reaching sexual maturity between 2 and 5 years and living for several and incrementally growing in size. Centipedes may lay up to 35 eggs in a period of days and can live up to 6 years. Both insects are partial to cool damp areas, especially darker areas since they are nocturnal pests. Inside residences this includes basements and bathroom areas and potted plants, but they will not live long indoors unless there exists a high moisture area and a food source. Centipedes are primarily carnivorous and attack other insects both for food and moisture necessity. Though millipedes prefer decaying organic matter they will feed on dead insects.

 

Prevention:

By making the environment inhospitable to these insects they will not survive long after entering indoors. This can be accomplished with the use of dehumidifiers and fixing leaky pipes in order to reduce the moisture levels. Dead leaves, grass clippings and other organic matter should be removed.

 

Treatment:

Residual products may be applied around the exterior of the home in conjunction with recommendations to correct harborage or structural issues to prevent these insects from invading in the future. An insect growth regulator may be used in addition to the residual product to control breeding populations.

 

 

cockroaches

American Cockroach

 

Physical Description:
Adults can reach about 2 inches long and have a reddish brown coloring with a yellowish band on the pronotal shield (between the head and back). The wings of the male extend further than the tip of the abdomen while the female’s do not.

 

Habits:
This cockroach can fly to a minimal degree. The female lays what are called ootheca, a type of capsule containing an average of 14-16 eggs, which she, through a mouth secretion, glues to the surface inside crevices near a food source. The young reach maturity usually after around 600 days and live about 440 days as adults. Developmental time and lifetime depend primarily on temperature. Though they prefer commercial buildings with larger food processing and storage areas, such as restaurants and grocery stores, they are also known to access residential homes. Not only are food storage or preparation areas targeted, but also basements and other cool, damp and dark areas. In commercial buildings, this cockroach is either brought into the building or it gains access through the sewer system. Their food source preference includes any matter that ferments, but they will scavenge for many types for survival.

 

Prevention:

All incoming products and their containers, such as grocery bags, goods from resale shops or garage sales, etc. should be inspected for the presence of not just cockroaches and ootheca, but also any other insects such as grain beetles. This is a common means by which all cockroaches enter a home and other buildings. Also, the sewer system, such as drains and other pipes, should be inspected for unnecessary gaps and may be fitted with screens to keep pests from entering from either direction. Sanitation, harborage elimination and dehumidifiers operating with the maintenance of cooler temperatures will make the environment inhospitable to cockroach development. If a population is already present, these steps should be implemented if they have not been already, and the use of professional products should also be incorporated.

 

Treatment:

Depending on the level of infestation, treatment may include baits and traps and also residual insect growth regulators (IGRs) used in conjunction with adulticides. These products should be applied into cracks and crevices because the cockroach typically spends up to 75% of its time in them. Once a food source is located, your technician will target harborage sites because cockroaches prefer to stay near their food site. In pipes, flushing agents may be used on a regular basis can have a positive prevention impact as well. Special attention to this breed’s preferential habits would be given while treating.

 

 

Brownbanded Cockroach

 

Physical Description:
Adults are normally ½ inch long and brown in color. The head is covered by the pronotal shield which has, due to color pattern, the shape of a church bell on it. There is also a brown band which runs across the back, specifically the nymph which actually has two bands.

 

Habits:
The female attaches the ootheca, averaging about 14 good eggs, typically to the underside of shelves or furniture near food sources. This occurs after about a day of the female carrying it. The developmental time is influenced primarily by temperature, the warmer being the better. Maturation after hatching is reached generally after 161 days with the adults living about 206 days after that and females producing about 14 ootheca. This type of cockroach prefers the warm areas and may be found on ceilings in some cases, as heat rises, and appliance motors or light switches.

 

Prevention:

All incoming products and their containers, such as grocery bags, goods from resale shops or garage sales, etc. should be inspected for the presence of not just cockroaches and ootheca, but also any other insects such as grain beetles. This is a common means by which all cockroaches enter a home and other buildings. Also, the sewer system, such as drains and other pipes, should be inspected for unnecessary gaps and may be fitted with screens to keep pests from entering from either direction. Sanitation, harborage elimination and dehumidifiers operating with the maintenance of cooler temperatures will make the environment inhospitable to cockroach development. If a population is already present, these steps should be implemented if they have not been already, and the use of professional products should also be incorporated.

 

Treatment:

Depending on the level of infestation, treatment may include baits and traps and also residual insect growth regulators (IGRs) used in conjunction with adulticides. These products should be applied into cracks and crevices because the cockroach typically spends up to 75% of its time in them. Once a food source is located, your technician will target harborage sites because cockroaches prefer to stay near their food site. In pipes, flushing agents may be used on a regular basis can have a positive prevention impact as well. Special attention to this breed’s preferential habits would be given while treating.

 

 

German Cockroach

 

Physical Description:
Adults range between 13 and 16mm in length and have a light tan coloring. There is a distinguishing color pattern of two black vertical stripes on their pronotal shield just behind their head, and on the nymphs this extends along the back in wider form.

 

Habits:
The female carries the ootheca for up to two days, upon which time it releases it in a crevice area. She may produce up to 5 ootheca with about 30-40 eggs each, and maturation is reached after about 103 days. Since developmental time is short and adults only live for about 100-200 days, German cockroach populations are comprised chiefly of nymphs (75%). The most common places it will be found is in a kitchen or bathroom and other areas where people eat (and spill) food. Such food sources can range to soap and glue products.

 

Prevention:

All incoming products and their containers, such as grocery bags, goods from resale shops or garage sales, etc. should be inspected for the presence of not just cockroaches and ootheca, but also any other insects such as grain beetles. This is a common means by which all cockroaches enter a home and other buildings. Also, the sewer system, such as drains and other pipes, should be inspected for unnecessary gaps and may be fitted with screens to keep pests from entering from either direction. Sanitation, harborage elimination and dehumidifiers operating with the maintenance of cooler temperatures will make the environment inhospitable to cockroach development. If a population is already present, these steps should be implemented if they have not been already, and the use of professional products should also be incorporated.

 

Treatment:

Depending on the level of infestation, treatment may include baits and traps and also residual insect growth regulators (IGRs) used in conjunction with adulticides. These products should be applied into cracks and crevices because the cockroach typically spends up to 75% of its time in them. Once a food source is located, your technician will target harborage sites because cockroaches prefer to stay near their food site. In pipes, flushing agents may be used on a regular basis can have a positive prevention impact as well. Special attention to this breed’s preferential habits should be given while treating, such as relying heavily on IGRs.

 

 

Oriental Cockroach

 

Physical Description:
Adult males are about one inch while females are a quarter of an inch longer. Color is a metallic black usually and though the female’s wings are but pads, the male’s wings extend 75% to the tip of its abdomen.

 

Habits:
The female carries her ootheca for about 30 hours after which it is released, and sometimes glued, into a crevice in a warm area near a food source. She may produce up to 8 ootheca, each averaging about 16 eggs, in her lifetime of 34-181 days as an adult. Maturation occurs after about 575 days for males and 602 days for females in normal situations. It is a strong survivor outdoors and can be found under debris or in other dark areas like porches. Their food preference includes decaying organic matter and starches, but they will eat a wide variety. Indoors they may be found in the lower levels, such as basements and crawl spaces, but on occasion will be seen upstairs around water pipes.

 

Prevention:

All incoming products and their containers, such as grocery bags, goods from resale shops or garage sales, etc. should be inspected for the presence of not just cockroaches and ootheca, but also any other insects such as grain beetles. This is a common means by which all cockroaches enter a home and other buildings. Also, the sewer system, such as drains and other pipes, should be inspected for unnecessary gaps and may be fitted with screens to keep pests from entering from either direction. Sanitation, harborage elimination and dehumidifiers operating with the maintenance of cooler temperatures will make the environment inhospitable to cockroach development. If a population is already present, these steps should be implemented if they have not been already, and the use of professional products should also be incorporated.

 

Treatment:

Depending on the level of infestation, treatment may include baits and traps and also residual insect growth regulators (IGRs) used in conjunction with adulticides. These products should be applied into cracks and crevices because the cockroach typically spends up to 75% of its time in them. Once a food source is located, your technician will target harborage sites because cockroaches prefer to stay near their food site. In pipes, flushing agents may be used on a regular basis can have a positive prevention impact as well. Special attention to this breed’s preferential habits would be given while treating.

 

 

Smoky Brown Cockroach

 

Physical Description:
Adults reach about between 25 and 32mm in length and have a metallic brownish black coloring. The wings extend beyond the abdominal tip and are functional. The nymphs look very different from the adults in that their coloring is black during the first instar and during each instar there is a white band on the mesothorax.

 

Habits:
The female releases her ootheca after carrying it for a day and firmly attaches it to a surface. There can be about 10 oothecas, each containing on average 20 eggs, produced by one female in her lifetime. Developmental time, dependent on temperature, averages about 600 days and adult life spans to about 220 days. Because this species loses moisture through its cuticles more rapidly than other species, the preferred environment most conducive to this cockroach is one which is highly moist. This also causes them to be less mobile and more concentrated to one area, especially an area devoid of an air current. Their food source includes organic matter and a wide variety of other nutritive substances.

 

Prevention:

All incoming products and their containers, such as grocery bags, goods from resale shops or garage sales, etc. should be inspected for the presence of not just cockroaches and ootheca, but also any other insects such as grain beetles. This is a common means by which all cockroaches enter a home and other buildings. Also, the sewer system, such as drains and other pipes, should be inspected for unnecessary gaps and may be fitted with screens to keep pests from entering from either direction. Sanitation, harborage elimination and dehumidifiers operating with the maintenance of cooler temperatures will make the environment inhospitable to cockroach development. If a population is already present, these steps should be implemented if they have not been already, and the use of professional products should also be incorporated.

 

Treatment:

Depending on the level of infestation, treatment may include baits and traps and also residual insect growth regulators (IGRs) used in conjunction with adulticides. These products should be applied into cracks and crevices because the cockroach typically spends up to 75% of its time in them. Once a food source is located, your technician will target harborage sites because cockroaches prefer to stay near their food site. In pipes, flushing agents may be used on a regular basis can have a positive prevention impact as well. Special attention to this breed’s preferential habits would be given while treating.

 

 

earwigs

 

Physical Description:
Adults range from 5 to 25 mm in length and have a somewhat flattened body with brown to black coloring and pale whitish legs.  In the rear there is present forcepslike cerci (paired appendages) that may be used defensively or offensively.

 

Habits:
Overwintering occurs usually outside about 40mm under the surface.  Some species of adult females may live up to 7 months, and depending on the species there may be up to 3 sets of 30-53 eggs.  Long periods of dryness are not tolerated by earwigs, which is why when they are indoors they head for moist areas.  Their usual food source includes plant material as well as insects.  They are attracted to light (maybe because there are other insects upon which they prey that are attracted).

 

Prevention:

Remove any excess mulch from around the house as well as dying vegetation.  Any other harborage site should also be removed, such as stones and logs, because they maintain a moisturized area.  Keep garbage cans sealed tightly without leaks and dry.

 

Treatment:

A professional would apply a residual product around the exterior of the home in order to combat any occasional invader from gaining entry.  This also helps against any growing population around the house.

 

 

fleas

 

Physical Description:
Adult cat fleas are generally about 2.5 mm in length and their color ranges from brownish black to black, and reddish black after having fed on a blood meal. Mature larvae are white, slender and twice the length of adults. There are several sorts of fleas, such as cat, dog, human and oriental rat flea.

 

Habits:
Possessing the ability to jump 6 inches into the air, fleas often hitch rides on not only pets but also people and other objects as they move through infested areas. Carriers then track them into the home or place of business where the fleas then take up their new residence and search for hosts upon which to feed. Once attached to their host their goal is to remain there permanently, feeding, mating and laying eggs unless removed. Since the flea is able to live off of stored body fat for up to six months without a blood meal, vacant residences are not necessarily void of fleas. A warm, humid environment is most suitable to their living patterns, and for this reason it is improbable to find fleas in colder, arid habitats. Though the various types of fleas share similar characteristics, human flea bites will show up all over the body whereas cat fleas, for instance, are generally concentrated around the lower leg areas.

 

Prevention:

Being vigilant is always the best method when seeking to prevent a flea infestation in your place of residence. After taking a pet outside it would be wise to quickly look him over to see if there are black, shiny objects moving on his fur, and the same applies to the person his/herself. Measures should be taken to prevent rodents and other wild animals from gaining access to the interior. This may be accomplished by closing up holes and gaps around the structures exterior.

 

Treatment:

Due to the flea’s rapid reproduction and longevity in the absence of food sources the best means to eradicate the problem is to hire a professional. The technician employs a product that incorporates an insect growth regulator (IGR) to treat the area of infestation. The product itself serves to eliminate the adult population, and the IGR serves to prevent the eggs and larvae from completing their growth cycle and maturing into adults later on.

 

 

flies

Blow/Bottle Fly

 

Physical Description:
Adults range in size from 4 to 16mm long and reflect a metallic color with a green or blue and sometimes black tint.

 

Habits:
These flies feed and discharge their eggs on food sources, which include animal carcasses, fecal matter and decaying vegetation that often resides in garbage collections. After hatching, the larvae feed on this material while developing to maturity, upon which time they normally leave the source to enter into the soil and pupate.

 

Prevention:

The best means of prevention is ensuring the removal from the yard of all extra unnecessary materials that could serve as food sources for blow/bottle flies. It is also a good idea to maintain a proper seal on garbage collection bins so as to keep flies out.

 

Treatment:

Though this is a task that may be completed by anyone, a professional knows what to look for. It is best to inspect the area at night when the flies are resting near their food sources and then to remove them completely. Such sanitation measures before application of a pest product ensures the optimum results.

 

 

Fruit Fly

 

Physical Description:
Adults are about 3-4 mm long with a tan to brownish yellow color and bright red eyes.

 

Habits:
Adult females lay their eggs near the surface of fermenting fruits or vegetables and sometimes on a can with a cracked seal. Hatching occurs in 30 hours and the larvae feed on the vinegarlike liquids emitted by fermenting foods. Pupation occurs only 5 to 6 days later with reproductive capability following only 2 days afterward. Because of this quick life cycle, fruit flies tend to multiply rapidly and pose a considerable risk of spreading diseases as they feed on exposed fruit or vegetables in the area of infestation.

 

Prevention:

Ensure that all exposed fruit is covered and the trash can is sanitized on a regular basis. Proper and consistent sanitation is the key to maintaining an inhospitable environment so as to keep fruit flies from locating a suitable breeding space on your premises.

 

Treatment:

Again, sanitation is the key to eradicating their presence. If their food and development source is removed their population will soon die out. Also, aerosols can be used to effectively treat the present adult population.

 

 

House Fly

 

Physical Description:
Adults are about 4 to 7.5 mm long with the female generally larger than the male. Coloring is dull gray to black without a shiny metallic texture. Most telling difference from a cluster fly is the presence of four black/gold stripes on the thorax (backside).

 

Habits:
Females lay their eggs in moist substances and within the day these eggs hatch. After developing into adulthood within a week after hatching, house flies live between 15 and 25 days. What makes their feeding pattern threatening is the generalness of their preference and the manner in which they eat. Using sponging mouthparts, only liquids can be absorbed into their system. Therefore, house flies regurgitate on solid food sources in order to liquefy and absorb them while also defecating whenever they rest on an object. As is similar with blow flies, house flies generally rest near their food source at night.

 

Prevention:

Maintaining sanitation within and around the area of residence is the best means of preventing the development of a house fly population. Outfitting the garbage receptacle with a secure and tight-sealing lid and hanging sticky traps so as to catch adult flies before they mate in the area are also advisable methods.

 

Treatment:

A professional examines the area for probable food/developmental sites and then removes them. Outside the residence it is a good idea to use an appropriately labeled product to treat underneath dumpsters and along the wall beside which the garbage receptacle normally sits. Hanging fly baits up near the area of food sources that cannot be removed is also effective.

 

 

Phorid Fly

 

Physical Description:
Adult Phorid flies, also called humpbacked or scuttle flies, are relatively small and only reach between .5 to 5.5 mm in length. Color includes a blend of yellow, brown and black. May appear similar to fruit flies but the most distinguishing characteristic is the color of their eyes, fruit flies being noticeably bright red on their head.

 

Habits:
Phorid flies target the drain pipes for breeding sites inside residence areas because of the moisture and presence of decaying organic material upon which they feed. It is also around these areas that the females lay their eggs so as to allow the larvae, upon hatching, to sustain them and reach adulthood. Other areas include garbage receptacles, cracks near kitchen equipment and septic system equipment.

 

Prevention:

Sanitation is the key for preventing the development of a phorid fly population, and this includes constant inspection and sanitation of the likely development sites, especially water pipes. Pouring bleach down a drain on a regular basis will not prevent nor effectively treat an infestation because it does not remove the actual breeding material, the biological film that collects inside the drain, nor the larvae inside that material.

 

Treatment:

Residual products are not normally necessary. Instead, a drain agent that is capable of breaking apart the biological growth and thereby removing the breeding ground is most preferable. In the meantime, to redress the adult problem, an assortment of fly traps, including insect light traps and glue traps, can prove effective.

 

 

moles

 

Physical Description:
Moles usually reach around 7 inches in length and have black or brown fur. Their face is normally pale with a pink snout and barely visible eyes or ears. They are blind.

 

Habits:
Moles spend their time every day moving throughout the tunnel network in search of grubs and worms, which they feel and eat right away. Some of their tunnels may even be abandoned if no food source has been detected there in a while. Moles uproot plants as they burrow through yards. They are rarely seen as they spend mostly their whole lives underground.

 

Prevention:

Have your lawn inspected and treated for grub control. This is the primary reason moles would be attracted to your yard. If you know your neighbors have a problem with moles.

 

Treatment:

The presence of moles in the yard can be detected by upraised tunnel systems throughout the yard. A professional can inspect the area and poke holes into the tunnel systems and drop bait resembling earthworms down into the holes. Also, traps may be set up with a spike sitting just above the tunnel, and when it is disturbed, the lever releases it. The most preferred and humane method, however, is baiting.

 

 

Mosquitos

 

Physical Description:
Anywhere between 3 and 9 mm long, mosquitoes are normally dark colored with some even possessing light color scales.

 

Habits:
The various breeds of mosquitoes are broken down primarily based on their egg-laying patterns, but all of them have one thing in common, their preference for moist, hot areas near standing water. This standing water is a development site for the pupae, which usually become flying adults after about two weeks from hatching. Their diet consists of blood meals, either humans or other animals, and most species prefer to hunt from dusk to dawn. Because they go from host to host and bite them, transmission of diseases such as yellow fever and encephalitis are a concern.

 

Prevention:

Removal of the breeding ground, namely standing water and excess moisture, is quite effective in reducing the presence of mosquitoes. However, it will not completely solve the problem because of this insect’s mobility, which can range on average of 5 to 10 miles. Proper sealing and screening of the residence area can effectively keep mosquitoes out.

 

Treatment:

The technician will first alter the environment to make it less hospitable to mosquito breeding. Then he will employ a product on the area, such as an insect growth regulator for the larvae and ULV applications that target the adults. This is effective because mosquitoes fly short distances at a time and stop on the ground frequently as they hunt.

 

 

pantry pests

Cigarette/Drugstore Beetle

 

Physical Description:
These two types of beetles are very similar in both appearance and habit. Between 2 and 3.5 mm long, oval and light brown to reddish brown in color, the quickest way of distinguishing them is the presence of pits that are arranged in vertical rows up the wing covers of the drugstore beetle (On the cigarette beetle these pits have no pattern).

 

Habits:
The female lays her eggs in or about the food materials, which hatch and complete another life cycle in about 7 months for the drugstore beetle and 2 months for the cigarette beetle. Both are strong fliers and attracted to light. Because they not only eat but also make silk cocoons at their developmental site, they are destructive to stored grain products.

 

Prevention:

The best method incorporates constant inspection of all incoming products and ensuring the warehouse is suitably protected from insect entry. If a batch of product is found to be infested, subject it to extreme temperatures (over 125°F) for 30 minutes to an hour, this will eliminate the pests at all levels of development and prevent infestation of the rest of the stored products. All stored products should be kept in sealed containers and off the ground on pallets as well as away from the walls. This not only allows for adequate inspection and better ventilation but also makes access for insects more difficult.

 

Treatment:

Through a combination of traps and residual products on the perimeter of the warehouse, access to stored products is greatly reduced. Additionally, maintaining constant sanitation practices will help to prevent the growth of a domestic pest population. Constant reapplications and inspections make it necessary to be set up on an ongoing professional program. Since these beetles can fly and are attracted to light, light traps in conjunction with sticky traps can be quite effective in redressing any present adult population.

 

 

Indianmeal Moth

 

Physical Description:
Adults have a wingspan of 16 to 20 mm and a distinct coloring pattern on the wings. The outer 2/3 of the wings are reddish brown while the inside remainder is grayish. Additionally, mature larvae reach a length of 19 mm and coloring varies widely and depends on the food source.

 

Habits:
Usually occurring at night, the female moth will lay her eggs, between 100 and 400, on the food source, and after hatching the larvae webs together a case on the surface of the food and eats from there. It should be noted that, short of laying eggs, the adults themselves actually cause no real damage. Rather, larvae, because of the large amounts of webbing produced, are quite destructive to their development source, which includes a wide array of dry packaged items like grains.

 

Prevention:

The best prevention means is to constantly inspect all packaging to ensure it is completely sealed.

 

Treatment:

The infested material must be removed from the area. Since pupation actually occurs away from the food source, the technician inspects the surrounding area and may use a residual product. To redress the adult population, typical traps for flying insects are set up, such as light and sticky traps.

 

 

Rice/Granary Weevil

 

Physical Description:
These two types of weevil are very similar in both appearance and habit. Between 3 and 5 mm long and reddish-brown coloring, the quickest way of distinguishing them is the presence of four reddish or yellowish markings on the wing covers of the rice weevil.

 

Habits:
The female will bore a hole into the grain kernel and lay an egg, sealing it up with a gelatinous material and repeating the process up to 400 times throughout her lifetime of about 6 months. Because the life cycle in the summer (from egg to maturation and laying its own eggs) can be as short as a month (up to 5 months in the winter), these pests are very destructive to grain products. Granary weevils are specifically destructive to stored grain because their wings are vestigial, forcing them to stay primarily confined to that one location unless transported elsewhere. Rice Weevils, on the other hand, are able to fly to the fields and infest the grain before the harvest and storage.

 

Prevention:

The best method incorporates constant inspection of all incoming products and ensuring the warehouse is suitably protected from insect entry. If a batch of product is found to be infested, subject it to extreme temperatures (over 125°F) for 30 minutes to an hour, this will eliminate the pests at all levels of development and prevent infestation of the rest of the stored products. All stored products should be kept in sealed containers and off the ground on pallets as well as away from the walls. This not only allows for adequate inspection but also makes access for insects more difficult.

 

Treatment:

Through a combination of traps and residual products on the perimeter of the warehouse, access to stored products is greatly reduced. Additionally, maintaining constant sanitation practices will help to prevent the growth of a domestic pest population. Constant reapplications and inspections make it necessary to be set up on an ongoing professional program.

 

 

Red Flour/Confused Flour Beetle

 

Physical Description:
About 3 to 4 mm long and possessing a reddish-brown color, these two beetles are quite similar in appearance and habit. The quickest way of distinguishing them, aside from minor thorax and antennae differences, is that the red flour beetle commonly flies.

 

Habits:
The female lays about 300-500 white eggs in her lifetime on food material, and the eggs hatch and a life cycle is completed in about 7 weeks to 3 months. Specifically attracted to flour with high moisture content, they also attack spices, grains, beans etc. Though their activities do not reportedly cause injury to humans, they do blemish the taste and scent of the food product.

 

Prevention:

The best method incorporates constant inspection of all incoming products and ensuring the warehouse is suitably protected from insect entry. If a batch of product is found to be infested, subject it to extreme temperatures (over 125°F) for 30 minutes to an hour, this will eliminate the pests at all levels of development and prevent infestation of the rest of the stored products. All stored products should be kept in sealed containers and off the ground on pallets as well as away from the walls. This not only allows for adequate inspection and better ventilation but also makes access for insects more difficult.

 

Treatment:

Through a combination of traps and residual products on the perimeter of the warehouse, access to stored products is greatly reduced. Additionally, maintaining constant sanitation practices will help to prevent the growth of a domestic pest population. Constant reapplications and inspections make it necessary to be set up on an ongoing professional program. Since the red flour beetle can fly and is attracted to light, light traps in conjunction with sticky traps can be quite effective in redressing any present adult population. (The confused flour beetle, though not a flier, is attracted to light.)

 

 

Sawtoothed Grain/Merchant Grain Beetle

 

Physical Description:
These two beetles are very similar to each other in appearance and habits, and the quickest way to differentiate, which is not that quick, is that the merchant grain beetle’s temple is less than half the vertical diameter of its eye while the saw-toothed temple is greater than half. Adults are about 3 mm long with a brownish color.

 

Habits:
The female lays her eggs in crevices in the actual food material and the eggs hatch in a few days. The larvae construct a cocoon-like home for development in that spot. In ideal habitats, around 90°F with over 70% relative humidity, there could occur up to 7 generations per year. They do not attack undamaged grain kernels and focus on cereal products. A further difference is that the merchant grain beetle can fly and is attracted to light whereas the saw-toothed cannot reportedly fly and is not attracted to light.

 

Prevention:

The best method incorporates constant inspection of all incoming products and ensuring the warehouse is suitably protected from insect entry. If a batch of product is found to be infested, subject it to extreme temperatures (over 125°F) for 30 minutes to an hour, this will eliminate the pests at all levels of development and prevent infestation of the rest of the stored products. All stored products should be kept in sealed containers and off the ground on pallets as well as away from the walls. This not only allows for adequate inspection and better ventilation but also makes access for insects more difficult.

 

Treatment:

Through a combination of traps and residual products on the perimeter of the warehouse, access to stored products is greatly reduced. Additionally, maintaining constant sanitation practices will help to prevent the growth of a domestic pest population. Constant reapplications and inspections make it necessary to be set up on an ongoing professional program. Since these beetles can fly and are attracted to light, light traps in conjunction with sticky traps can be quite effective in redressing any present adult population. Since the merchant grain beetle can fly and is attracted to light, light traps in conjunction with sticky traps can be quite effective in redressing any present adult population.

 

 

rodents

House Mouse

 

Physical Description:
The house mouse weighs about ½-1 oz and is 6.5-9 cm long with a tail between 7 and 10 cm. It has smooth, gray fur with a lighter shade of coloring on the belly. Adult droppings can range from 3 to 6 mm in length, are rod-shaped and pointed.

 

Habits:
What makes this pest a strong nuisance is its breeding pattern. Reaching sexual maturity only after 35 days from birth and having an average pregnancy period of only 19 days, the female can have about 8 litters averaging 6 babies each annually. Because this mouse is versatile, possessing such abilities as jumping one foot off the ground and freefalling up to 8 feet, it is very easy for it to gain access into a home. It also, over a six month period of time, deposits about 9,000 droppings, making the area of infestation very unhealthy, spreading such diseases as salmonella. Not only are mice social, males are also very curious and travel the routes that define their territories daily and explore any new object. Their feeding pattern is characterized by a major feeding at dawn and at dusk with several small “nibbling” meals throughout the day. Their nesting sites can be characterized as dark and secluded, and also next to nesting materials. Typically, they acquire their necessary water intake from the food source.

 

Prevention:

Pest-proofing is the best strategy to prevent mice from accessing the residence. Typically, any gap in the exterior of the home, including around doors and windows, which is ¼ inch or larger in diameter should be physically closed up with such materials as steel wool and sealant. Generally, if the hole is large enough for a mouse to fit its head into then it can get the rest of its body through it. Steel wool is a good material because mice cannot chew through it. Also, the eradication of any harborage sites inside and around the home will decrease the hospitality of the environment to the mouse and cause it to go elsewhere.

 

Treatment:

A professional will lay traps along the routes which the rodents commonly take and which lead to food, water and nesting material sources. These routes are generally along walls and marked by oil that rubbed off the mouse as it traveled along the wall. Food sites are marked by higher concentration of droppings, so traps should be concentrated not only along the routes (every 5-10 feet) but also at the food source. Baits are also an effective solution to be emplaced like traps. Again, eradicating the harborage sites and implementing and maintaining sanitation practices will reduce the mouse’s desire to remain in that residence.

 

 

Norway Rat

 

Physical Description:
The adult is between 7 and 9.5 inches in length with a tail of 6 to 8 inches long. Its back is gray and coarse and its belly tends toward a yellowish/whitish tint. The droppings are usually 20mm long with blunt ends and the Norway rat’s tracks are 4-toed (front) and 5-toed (rear).

 

Habits:
Pregnancy lasts generally for 23 days and the youth reach sexual maturity in about 2-5 months. This means that this rat can produce up to 6 litters, each averaging 7 or 8 young, in a year. It is a good jumper, runner, swimmer and climber and therefore gains entry into residences with relative ease. Because it is normally infested with fleas itself, it brings these into the area and the diseases they may be carrying. Other diseases, such as murine typhus, can be transmitted not only through fleas but also its droppings, which average about 30-180 every day. They are nocturnal and curious about their environment, but, unlike the house mouse, they are quite cautious about new objects, such as traps. They typically burrow into the soil underneath concrete slabs and other areas of cover, and, since they are social, their burrows are often surrounded by other rat burrows. From their burrows they follow a regular pattern of routes to food and nesting material sources. These routes are visibly worn down by constant treading and grease marks. Food preference includes meats and cereals, but they will settle for practically anything. Unlike the house mouse, their water source is generally separate from their food source.

 

Prevention:

Pest-proofing the residence is the best means to prevent access to rats. Since they can gnaw through lead and plastic pipes, material for filling in gaps in the exterior of homes should be stronger, such as steel wool. Also, keeping the area completely sanitized, not only of potential food sources but also harborage sites.

 

Treatment:

Though rats defecate largely anywhere, bait stations and traps used in conjunction and placed in the areas where droppings are most concentrated, namely along routes and at the food sources, is very effective. A professional might even use nontoxic tracking powder to ascertain their routes and locations, and in certain situations, toxic tracking powder, but this is a last resort because of its harmfulness to the surrounding area. This strategy combined with sanitation and pest-proofing is most effective. Additionally, glue boards that are anchored down to the pipe or ground upon which they rest (because a rat might carry it off) may be effective, but this is not preferable.

 

 

Roof Rat

 

Physical Description:
The adult is around 6 to 8 inches long with a tale length of 7 to 10 inches. Its fur is soft and brown with black intermixed on the back with a whitish belly. Droppings are about 12.5mm long with pointed ends.

 

Habits:
Pregnancy lasts about 22 days, sexual maturity is reached after 2 to 5 months and about 4-6 litters, each averaging 6-8 young, occur annually. This rat is as versatile as the Norway rat and because it is also normally infested with fleas, it brings these and the diseases they may be carrying into the area. Other diseases, such as murine typhus, can be transmitted not only through fleas but also its droppings, which average about 30-180 every day. Nocturnal and cautious, they search throughout their territory daily but shy away from any new objects. Their burrows may be found in higher areas than the Norway rat’s, such as up in trees or on rooftops, but may also be located on the ground. Their food preference includes vegetables and cereals, rather than meats, but they will eat anything to survive. As is common with rodents, once an adequate food source is located, the rat will return to it, often via the same routes, until the source is gone. These routes are visibly worn down by constant treading and grease marks, and also droppings. Several nesting sites may exist in one area because of the sociability of this rat; though less so than the Norway rat. Additionally, glue boards that are anchored down to the pipe or ground upon which they rest (because a rat might carry it off) may be effective, but this is not preferable.

 

Prevention:

Pest-proofing the residence is the best means to prevent access to rats. Since they can gnaw through lead and plastic pipes, material for filling in gaps in the exterior of homes should be stronger, such as steel wool. Also, keeping the area completely sanitized, not only of potential food sources but also harborage sites.

 

Treatment:

Though rats defecate largely anywhere, bait stations and traps used in conjunction and placed in the areas where droppings are most concentrated, namely along routes and at the food sources, is very effective. A professional might even use nontoxic tracking powder to ascertain their routes and locations, and in certain situations, toxic tracking powder, but this is a last resort because of its harmfulness to the surrounding area. This strategy combined with sanitation and pest-proofing is most effective. Additionally, glue boards that are anchored down to the pipe or ground upon which they rest (because a rat might carry it off) may be effective, but this is not preferable.

 

 

voles

 

Physical Description:
Voles look just like mice and in fact are called “field mice” sometimes but their bodies are stout, round and hairier with a much shorter tail, tiny eyes and hidden ears. They have teeth that continue to grow throughout their life span so they constantly chew on things to file them down.

 

Habits:
Voles eat seeds, green vegetation, tree needles and bark, grass and clover. They typically only live for 3-6 months.

 

Prevention:

Controlling voles is very similar to the methods used to control mice. Exclusion should be first and foremost method of controlling vole populations. This can be done by plugging up any gaps, cracks and crevices around windows, doors, and foundations that they could possible squeeze in through.

 

Treatment:

Baiting with some type of anticoagulant is the most effective efficacy.

 

 

Silverfish

 

Physical Description:
Adults are about 12-19mm long, have a teardrop shaped body with a silver coloring and tapering down the back.  On the posterior there are three appendages in the shape of a trident.

 

Habits:
The female will normally lay her eggs in cracks and crevices but on occasion may leave them exposed. The developmental time relies heavily on the temperature and humidity, favorable conditions being 72-80°F with 50-75% relative humidity. During the day they are hidden in cracks which are normally close to a food source unless they are roaming in search of one. Such food they are attracted to include a high level of carbohydrates and proteins and may even feed on wallpaper and books. They are often introduced into buildings via cardboard boxes carried in by people.

 

Prevention:

Continuous inspection of all incoming materials should be maintained.  Once an infestation has occurred, mechanical controls such as dehumidifiers and air conditioners to make the residence cool can take a heavy toll on silverfish.  Fix leaky pipes or cracks in the roof area that may let in rain.

 

Treatment:

There are also several products that may be used for a silverfish application, such as dust for wall voids, specially formulated place packs may be inserted into clothing drawers, closets, bookcases, basements, etc., exterior barrier products may be applied around the foundation to further prevent these occasional invaders.

 

 

spiders

Brown Recluse Spider

 

Physical Description:
Adults are 6-12mm in length with a tan-brown coloring and a pattern on the thorax resembling the shape of a violin. The eyes are arranged in three pairs forming a semi-circle. They are not commonly indigenous to northern Illinois, but may be transported.

 

Habits:
This spider is a health concern because of the venom which it injects into its prey and occasionally into humans who disturb it.  This venom causes a necrosis at the bite site and the tissue systematically dies around it while the victim also suffers from fever and inability to sleep.  The majority of this spider’s bites are not venomous.  Inside the home they may be found in areas where there is little activity. They live in dry areas with little to no air flow.

 

Prevention:

Sealing cracks and gaps in the exterior of the building will greatly reduce likelihood of spiders gaining access to your home. Reducing clutter and places for these insects to hide will make your environment less appealing for the spiders.

 

Treatment:

Once an infestation has been allowed to get worse, gaining control, because of this spider’s reclusive habits, may take up to 6 months or even longer.  Specifically for this spider, cedar shake shingles should be inspected and a residual product should be applied to the surface of them.  Inspection is the first step, and because spiders are nocturnal the best time is at night. A residual product applied to the exterior helps even more.  Using a vacuum to remove not only present spiders and their webs but also the egg sacs can keep a population in check.  Because the spiders can go for long periods without food or water, controlling the population of its prey will only be a long-term solution.

 

 

House Spider

 

Physical Description:
Adults are 5-8mm length with a dirty white rounded abdomen and yellow-orange legs with stripes on them.

 

Habits:
House spiders choose web sites in no particular fashion, but if the web does not collect prey, it will be abandoned. Houses or buildings with higher humidity and populations of other small insects will attract spiders. They prefer places that are not frequently occupied or disturbed near an air drift that would swoop flying insects into their webs. Attics, basements, barns, garages, and sheds are prime real estate for these insects.

 

Prevention:

Keeping your home free of other insect activity will greatly reduce attractiveness to spiders in the long run. Removing clutter, piles of clothing, and boxes will reduce hiding places and web building locations.

 

Treatment:

Vacuums will easily eliminate spiders, their webs, and egg sacs. This is more successful than brooms since the adults could easily scurry out of sight once batted at. Your technician may treat corners of walls or ceilings or specific spots you’ve seen the spiders “hanging out” or building their webs. Sometimes it is helpful not to remove cobwebs so the technician may treat them. Spiders sometimes ingest their webs and if it has been treated, this product will eliminate the insect upon ingestion.

 

 

Wood Destroying insect

Carpenter Ant

 

Physical Description:
There being a wide range in size and even color, the best way to identify this ant is the presence of golden hairs on the posterior, a single node and 12-segmented antennae without clubs.

 

Habits:
The nest is normally established in decayed wood, and if the colony expands in size then satellites are established in any wood present.  Indoors, not only should wood be checked but also insulation and wall voids.  Their food source includes insect honeydew and the insects themselves, plant and fruit juices, meats and grease.  Workers may search for food up to 300 feet away from the colony’s nest, and this foraging generally occurs in greater strength between 10pm and 2am.

 

Prevention:

Frass, sawdust and insect body parts, is the best indicator of the nest’s location.  If this is seen inside the home then treatment will be necessary to prevent further damage to the structural integrity.  A second indicator is the crunching noise these ants emit when carving through the wood and moving about in the newly establish tunnels.  Tree branches and bushes that touch the exterior should be trimmed back because ants can crawl along these to untreated portions of the home (this may also include telephone wires).  Caulking gaps and repairing leaks that make wood rot and so more enticing to carpenter ants can also help.

 

Treatment:

Locating the parent colony is most important, and this may be done by following all trails to colony bases and treating these areas. Inside, drilling may often be required after which dusting is utilized.  A barrier treatment along the exterior can effectively prevent the infestation from having happened in the first place.

 

 

Eastern Subterranean Termite

 

Physical Description:
Since this termite does not venture into open air except when swarming, the winged reproductive units (swarmers) are what most people see first. They are about 10mm long and dark brown or black. The wings are translucent and the front wing is slightly larger than the hind wings.

 

Habits:
This termite is a social insect and lives in colonies wherein there are three castes, the workers, soldiers and reproductives. These reproductives are sent out at a certain time in the year, similar to ants, and found additional satellite colonies. Colonies can reach up to a million workers if left undisturbed for long periods of time, but typically 60,000 is reached after several years. A mature queen can produce up to 10,000 eggs yearly and she can live for several years while the workers generally live only for 2 years. A colony may release swarmers (alates) after three years and this usually occurs in the spring. Foraging occurs up to 12,000 sq ft from the center of the colony’s nest, which is normally located in the ground. Mud tubes are built for the purposes of traveling from the nest to the food sources because exposure to air dries them out rapidly. This is a quick way of discovering there is termite activity in the area.

 

Prevention:

The wood of the structure should not be in contact with the soil but instead should be placed on concrete, for instance. Also, any moist wood should be dried in order to make it less hospitable to the termites. If you know your neighbors’ homes or neighborhood is prone to termite activity, it is a good idea to hire professionals to install a monitoring system underground to prevent termites from getting too close to your home. With this completely green system, called Sentricon, your technician would monitor the low profile bait stations on a regular basis guaranteeing protection against termite threats. Should termites find their way to your property, the technician would be able to eliminate the problem before it reaches the structure of your home.

 

Treatment:

There are two methods for termite control. The first is a liquid treatment, where a team of technicians would apply a residual liquid product into the ground around the exterior perimeter of the home. This method may include drilling and trenching. The other method is a completely green, in-ground baiting system called Sentricon. The bait stations are inserted no more than 8-10 inches into the ground around the exterior perimeter of the structure. They may be filled with special termite bait or they could be filled with a wood monitor. The system is monitored monthly for the first year and then quarterly for following years so long as the customer chooses to renew the monitoring program annually. Both of these control methods may be utilized in the presence of activity or just as a precaution.

 

 

Old House Borer

 

Physical Description:
The adult is about 15-25 mm long with an elongated and slightly flattened body. The coloring is usually brownish black with two transverse bands on the wing covers.

 

Habits:
This insect only attacks softwoods and of this only the sapwood. The moisture content needs to be about 10-20% for best development. The exit holes they leave are about 6.5-10 mm in diameter and oval and new ones will appear most commonly during the months of June through August, and chewing sounds in the wood are quite loud.

 

Prevention:

Pretreated wood is always an option to prevent boring, and also a continuous program of professional product application around the exterior to prevent them in the first place is recommended.

 

Treatment:

After infestation occurs, localized treatment performed via drilling is adequate and also replacement of the infested wood is an option.

 

 

Powderpost Beetle

 

Physical Description:
Adult powderpost beetles are brownish black, usually between 1-7mm and are oblong, narrow and flatter in shape. They have six legs with claws at the ends, rows of golden brown hairs, and segmented antennae. The larvae are off-white in color and crescent shaped. Damaged wood will have exit holes where the larvae emerge that are between 0.8-1.6mm in diameter. Piles of fine sawdust will be present where there is an infestation.

 

Habits:
Females lay eggs in cracks and crevices of sapwood, hardwood and even the insides of treated lumber. The development process from larva to adult could take anywhere from 3-12 months up to 4 years depending on the moisture of the wood.

 

Prevention:

Specific lacquers or varnishes applied to wood will prevent these borers from infesting the wood.

 

Treatment:

If an infestation is determined to be active, localized treatment will need to be professionally applied. Your technician will prescribe the best methods and products and complete a thorough treatment to eradicate these populations.

 

 

other

Pillbugs/Sowbugs

 

Physical Description:
Adult pillbugs can reach up to between 7 and 15mm in length and have a metallic black coloring and a scale-like back. They can roll into a tight ball for protection. Adult sowbugs reach up to 16 mm and look just like pillbugs except that they are wider and cannot roll into a complete ball.

 

Habits:
Eggs normally develop and hatch after 45 days of being carried on the underside of the body. As adults they can live up to 2 years. To keep from losing water, both insects are relatively inactive during the day and try to remain under something cool, moist and dark. Indoor infestation usually means that there is a large population just outside the structure and entry is normally gained via gaps in the threshold of the doors. Indoor survival does not last long due to lack of moisture and food sources, however if these conditions are present they can stay much longer. Food sources include plant matter but also decaying animal on occasion.

 

Prevention:

The best means to prevent the presence of these insects is to remove the harborage sites around the exterior as well as inside. This would include any excessively moist areas due perhaps to leaks, removing piles of vegetation and inspecting flower pots.

 

Treatment:

A professional may apply a residual product to the exterior perimeter of the building in order to keep them away. This treatment by your technician combined with preventative measures usually render the best results.

 

 

Springtail

 

Physical Description:
Adults normally only reach up to 3mm in length, but may reach 10mm. They are wingless and easily identified by their tendency to jump short distances when provoked. This jumping occurs when the tail, kept underneath the body and held in place by a clasping appendage, is released.

 

Habits:
The springtail breathes through the cuticles on its skin and also collects moisture through this process. It inhabits only moist areas because of this biological tendency to not only collect but also lose water through the cuticles. Most species of springtail begin in the soil and reproduce rapidly (known to be 50,000 per cubic foot at times). When they either get overcrowded or when the soil loses its moisture they have been known to invade structures in search of a more suitable environment. They are also introduced inside when a potted plant which they have infested is carried into the structure. Bathrooms, kitchens and other high moisture areas, even insulation moist from a leak, are prime target areas.

 

Prevention:

Measures to reduce the moisture content of the areas should be taken, such as through the use of dehumidifiers and fixing any leaks. Vacuum cleaners also come in handy when the need for quickly reducing adult populations in large numbers is required.

 

Treatment:

If the area cannot be dried out properly, a professional may be called upon to apply a residual product in active areas throughout the interior and exterior of the structure of the home. Regular maintenance may be the best solution if your home has a history with these insects.

 

 

Webbing Clothes Moth

 

Physical Description:
Adults reach up to 12mm from wing tip to wing tip and both of these wings are long and narrow. There are also reddish hairs on the top of the head and the rest of the body and wings is whitish gold.

 

Habits:
A sign of infestation is silken tubes on the clothing material, especially in collar or pocket areas. Upon emergence from the cocoon sexual maturity is already obtained. Normally only clothing that has animal fibers incorporated into it, such as wools, or which is heavily dirty is targeted. The adults do not feed and are not attracted to light. The larvae grow best in humid.

 

Prevention:

Store clothing, blankets, etc., especially items made of animal hairs or fur, in airtight garment bags or airtight containers and store in cool, dry place.

 

Treatment:

The source of infestation and breeding must be found in order to properly eliminate these pests. If they are not in the usual closet or clothing storage locations, air ducts and behind couches where pet hair clumps may be present are prime problem spots for these pests. Pheromone traps may be strategically placed in order to control populations of moths as well as monitor activity levels. Ongoing maintenance may be the best option to ensure these pests are eliminated and prevented from re-infestation.